Coastal South Carolina has one of the longest active lawn care seasons in the country — roughly 9 to 10 months of meaningful growth, with only a brief dormancy window in the coldest part of winter. This guide walks through what your Myrtle Beach lawn needs month by month so your turf stays healthy, green, and looking its best all year.
January – February: Dormancy & Prep
Most warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede) are dormant or semi-dormant in January and February in Horry County. St. Augustine stays green longer but may show some brown in cold snaps.
- Mowing: Little to none needed. If your lawn stays green, mow only if it grows past 3 inches
- Fertilizer: Do NOT fertilize dormant grass — nutrients won't be absorbed and can burn roots
- Weed Control: Good time to apply pre-emergent for spring weed prevention (late February)
- Tasks: Sharpen mower blades, service equipment, assess any fall damage
March: Green-Up Season Begins
Temperatures in Myrtle Beach typically push into the 60s–70s in March, and warm-season grasses begin coming out of dormancy. You'll see the first hints of green returning to Bermuda and Zoysia lawns.
- Mowing: Begin light mowing as the lawn greens up — set blade height slightly lower than summer height for the first cut to remove any dead material
- Pre-emergent: Apply if not done in February — targets crabgrass and other annual weeds
- Soil test: Great time to test soil pH and nutrient levels if you haven't in 2–3 years
- Aeration: Late March is a good window for core aeration before the growth surge begins
April – May: Active Growth & First Fertilization
April brings the real growing season to coastal South Carolina. Temperatures warm into the 70s–80s, and warm-season grasses shift into active growth mode. Mowing frequency increases significantly.
- Mowing: Every 7–10 days for Bermuda and Zoysia; every 10–14 days for St. Augustine and Centipede
- Fertilizer: Apply first nitrogen application once the lawn is fully green and actively growing (mid-April to mid-May). Use a slow-release formula for Bermuda and Zoysia. Avoid heavy nitrogen on Centipede — it prefers low-nitrogen programs
- Weed control: Apply post-emergent if weeds broke through despite pre-emergent
- Irrigation: Begin watering if spring rain doesn't provide 1 inch per week
Myrtle Beach tip: Don't rush the first fertilization. Applying nitrogen before the lawn is fully out of dormancy can burn the root system. Wait until you have consistent green growth across the entire lawn.
June – August: Peak Season
The hottest months bring peak growth rates and the most demanding mowing schedule of the year. Bermuda grass in Myrtle Beach can need cutting every 5–7 days during the heat of summer.
- Mowing: Every 5–10 days depending on grass type and rainfall. Never remove more than 1/3 of the blade height in one cutting
- Fertilizer: Second application mid-summer (June/July). Avoid fertilizing during heat stress periods above 95°F
- Irrigation: 1–1.5 inches per week. Water deeply 2–3 times per week rather than lightly every day
- Fungus watch: High humidity in July–August creates ideal conditions for lawn fungus. Look for brown patches with irregular edges — treat with fungicide at first sign
- Insects: Chinch bugs are the most common summer pest for St. Augustine in coastal SC. Look for yellowing patches that don't respond to watering
September – October: Transition & Last Fertilization
Temperatures moderate in September and October, providing some of the best growing conditions of the year for coastal SC lawns. This is your last chance to thicken the turf before winter dormancy.
- Mowing: Continue every 7–14 days as growth moderates in October
- Fertilizer: Last application of the season — use a low-nitrogen, higher-potassium formula to harden the grass for winter without pushing excessive green growth
- Overseeding: If you have thin spots in Bermuda or Zoysia, late September is the last effective overseeding window
- Pre-emergent: Apply fall pre-emergent in October for winter annual weed control (henbit, chickweed)
November – December: Slowing Down
Growth slows significantly in November as night temperatures drop into the 40s–50s. Warm-season grasses begin their dormancy transition.
- Mowing: Reduce frequency as growth slows — biweekly, then monthly
- Leaf removal: Leaves left on the lawn through winter can smother grass and promote disease. Clear them regularly
- No fertilizer: Cease all fertilization by November 1st
- Equipment: Service and winterize mower and irrigation system
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